Necktie experts measure silk in mommes, a traditional measurement equal to about one ounce per square yard of fabric. For everyone else, here are a few simple ways to pick out a high-quality tie that’s worth its weight in mommes.
1. Do the drop test
Hold one end of the tie in the air and let the other end fall. Better-made ties hang straight and don’t torque or twist.
2. Check the lining
The interior should be the same fabric as the front. In fact, the best ties are made entirely from one piece of silk, folded seven times.
3. Open it up
The further up you can unfold the tie in the back, the better. Some ties are only lined up to a certain point. Better ties allow you to unfold them further up the back, exposing their superior craftsmanship.
4. Look for the string
The very best ties—from brands like Kiton and Charvet—have a single string that runs the length of the tie. This can help you readjust the tie mid-day.
5. Look for a good keeper
This is the loop through which you insert the skinny part of the tie to keep it from flying around. It should be in same fabric as the tie itself, and well attached.
6. Wear a shirt you like
You want to get a sense of what the tie looks like with your preferred collar style. When you try on the tie, the knot should be substantial and fill the space proportionally.
7. Check for creases
After you’ve tried it on, remove the tie and check for creases or bunching. If it’s a good tie, the fabric will come out of the knot as fresh as it went in.